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Kyoto Strategies and Customs for Feeling Cool in Summer

Wagashi: Kibune River Yokan
This yokan wagashi is section of river with swimming fish, floating green leaves and boulders that in addition to being tasty meant to have a cooling effect on the mind of the eater.

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Firefly Theme Namagashi 亀屋良長 蛍テーマ生菓子

Firefly Theme Namagashi 亀屋良長 蛍テーマ生菓子
This wagashi from a historic shinise store in Kyoto, Kameyama Yoshinaga, is reminiscent of fireflies on verdant green foliage of early summer.

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Sea of Japan Heshiko Furikake へしこ ふりかけ

Sea of Japan Heshiko Furikake へしこ ふりかけ
Furikake is a condiment for sprinkling on rice in Japan. Conventional furikake is of mediocre quality however once in a while you come across some that is gourmet.

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Kyoyasai: Garden Grown Cucumber Nukazuke 京野菜ぬか漬け

Kyoyasai: Garden Grown Cucumber Nukazuke 京野菜ぬか漬け
Say hello to the KyotoFoodie Kyoto vegetable garden! We are trying to grow some authentic, traditional Kyoto vegetables this year.

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Summer Matsutake Dobin Mushi 夏松茸土瓶蒸し

Summer Matsutake Dobin Mushi 夏松茸土瓶蒸し
Matsutake Mushroom is synonymous with autumn. Although rare, in early summer it can be had as well and is a favorite among aficionados and gourmets. Last night I got a taste of some at Kichisen, the greatest restaurant in the world.

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This entry is part 2 of 2 in the series Do Not Miss

Izuju: The Best Kyoto Style Sushi in Kyoto 祇園いづ重 京都寿司

Izuju: The Best Kyoto Style Sushi in Kyoto 祇園いづ重 京都寿司
Sushi in Kyoto has a long history but it is quite unlike the nigiri sushi that we are used to abroad. Unlike Tokyo, Kyoto was landlocked and that required somehow keeping fish edible after the journey here. Kyoto sushi required some smarts and ingenuity, it also had to be good enough for the emperor! Izuju is a restaurant in Gion that fell in love with. This is a truly great one!

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First Ayugashi of 2009! 平安殿のあゆ くず焼き

First Ayugashi of 2009! 平安殿のあゆとくず焼き
Ayugashi, one of my all time favorite wagashi is available now. It, like the actual ayu sweetfish will be in season for another month or so. I had my first of the year today from perhaps my favorite ayugashi maker, Heianden.

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I noticed some search access recently for the fake maiko dinner show (Kyoto Cuisine and Maiko Evening) at Hatanaka Ryokan in Gion.

I was invited to review it by Hatanaka and it was horrible. I wrote a detailed critical review but Miwa used to work there so I haven’t posted it yet.

Unprofessional Production
The maiko are cute but the production is very unprofessional. Just less than half of the audience will have their back to the show. They all go home with very stiff necks.

The English translation is poor.

Cheap and Stingy Dinner
The Hatanaka Maiko Dinner Show is REALLY expensive. In typical Kyoto style, they are stingy with the amount and quality of the food that they serve. It is a complete rip off. We know how much maiko cost and about how much the food costs; Hatanaka is robbing their guests!

Better Alternative
The maiko performances at any of the kaburenjo theaters is far, far better and a fraction of the price. Go to the theater and go out for a nice dinner after.

Sorry
When we reviewed Hatanaka’s Hamo Cuisine last summer, it was to introduce the cuisine, rather than recommend Hatanaka. I actually regret that we didn’t review a better kitchen. (Hatanaka’s food isn’t terrible, there is just better in town.)

Kifune Kawadoko at Kibunejaya 貴船の川床 貴船茶屋

Kifune Kawadoko at Kibunejaya 貴船の川床 貴船茶屋
This morning, once again, Tanigawa-san from Kichisen called and asked me to accompany him on a little culinary adventure up to Kibune. Kibune is a village in a mountain gorge in the north mountains above Kyoto, it is a top foodie (and date) spot, especially in the sweltering Kyoto summer. In Kibune they put deck-like constructions with tables over the mountain stream and people enjoy a wonderful meal of river fish while sitting atop the cool, gushing river.

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Kyoto Nest Project and Wagashi Omiyage

Kyoto Nest Project and Wagashi Omiyage
Kara Komoro Wagashi: An early summer wagashi shaped like a well dressed member of the imperial court, made of sweet jellied beans.

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Kichisen Sabazushi

Kichisen Sabazushi (Mackerel Sushi) 吉泉の鯖寿し

Kichisen Sabazushi  吉泉の鯖寿し
Historically, Kyoto — the inland, landlocked capital — wasn’t much of a sushi town, but sabazushi was and is a very important part of the culinary culture. For centuries, Mackerel was harvested in fishing villages on the Sea of Japan coast and carried for several days on the ‘Mackerel Highway’ to Kyoto. The end of the Mackerel Highway, marked by an inscribed stone, is just a 5 minute walk down the street from Kichisen. Of course Kichisen makes sabazushi too and it is sublime.

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Sakurazushi: Salted Sakura Leaf Tai (Sea Bream) Sushi  鯛桜寿し

Sakurazushi: Salted Sakura Leaf Tai (Sea Bream) Sushi  鯛桜寿し
Just when you think that you have tried all the sushi in the world, you discover one in the very ‘un-sushi’ town of Kyoto that takes you aback! Sakurazushi, as made by Kichisen, is tai (sea bream) wrapped in salted sakura leaf. More than sublime!

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