Recently I had an opportunity to interview founder Shingo ‘Johnny’ Ito at his office in Yagi, a small town in rural Kyoto prefecture. Though Otokomae Tofu is based in Kyoto, it isn’t really a ‘Kyoto’ company. It is very ‘Tokyo’, or ‘Osaka’, for me that has its downsides but I think the company breaths some new life into often stuffy old Kyoto. I affectionately think of Shingo ‘Johnny’ Ito as a kind of shock therapist for Kyoto.

Johnny and Johnny

Michael: Why ‘Johnny’ (for product name)?

Johnny: For tofu product names there had been names like Minosuke and Shigezo (typical Japanese male names), all Japanese names, so I thought that Johnny would be great for a new tofu because it sounds extremely new and is unforgettable. Since we started selling Johnny, 6 or 7 years have passed.

Michael: Why did you think to develop this tofu?

Johnny: I wanted to make a tofu that had a taste different from the tofu that had been available previously. It is still tofu, but ours is quite sweet. Of course we don’t use sugar, we draw out the natural sweetness of high quality soybeans. I researched and developed the production method. I came up with a very interesting and delicious taste. So, for such a special tofu it would be a pity to give it a boring name!

Since we started selling this tofu, 6 years or so have passed and there are some people that think ‘Johnny’ instead of ‘tofu’! (laughter.. When people hear ‘Johnny’ they wonder what it is. There had never been any food or product called Johnny.

Michael: So, was Johnny your first product?

Johnny: No. Otokomae was first. After developing Otomokae, I made Johnny.

Michael: Ah, Otokomae Tofu (product name) was first? I see. What is the characteristic quality of Otokomae?

Otokomae Tofu Package Detail - Notice the Water Trap at the Bottom (男前豆腐)

Johnny: Well, there is a Japanese proverb; mizu mo shitataru ii otoko (水もしたたるいい男). For a really great guy, you say this.

explanatory note: The meaning of the proverb is a bit difficult to convey in natural English. Here goes. The literal meaning is ‘even water is dripping from (this) man’ (could be a woman too — or tofu). The metaphor of water is of being fresh, sexy, healthy, active — just too good!

I developed the container for this tofu first. The tofu is wrapped with a paper-like sheet and the container has a trap at the bottom to collect water. It has a double function to remove water from the tofu. This was the first tofu in-which water is slowly and thoroughly removed from the tofu while still in the package.

This is mizu mo shitataru tofu. (A word play on the above proverb.) And from that, I made the name of the company: Otokomae Dofu-ten (lit. handsome guy tofu shop)

There hadn’t been this kind of tofu available and people were surprised by the name of the company and the rich flavor of the tofu produced by the unique package I developed.

When I first started out I would be waiting in line at the bank and when the clerk said Otokomae Dofu-ten (handsome guy tofu-san) all the other customers waiting would look around see me … laughter

So, that was our start and next I made Johnny.

Otoko Sanren-chan (three guys in a row)

Johnny: Next came Otoko Sanren-chan (three guys in a row).

Michael: What is the unique characteristic of this product?

Johnny: This is a product packaged in three small portions so that it can be eaten little by little. The three faces on the package are of the guys who are in charge of the product line and actually make this tofu. The names are actual too; Ryokuichi, Tetsuo and Masahiro.

And then we have these three varieties available in single larger packages for people who want to eat more of one.

(looking at the package)

Michael: I never noticed this! What is this barcode?

Johnny Package Detail: With Surfer 'Design Barcode'

Johnny: Yeah, that is a barcode. It is called ‘Design Barcode’ You see here on Johnny the barcode is in the shape of a wave and there is a surfer riding the top of the wave.

Michael: So is Design Barcode from Japan?

Johnny: Yes. I first saw it reported on Yahoo! News. I mailed the guys who invented it right away and told them I was making a tofu product called Johnny in the shape of a surfboard and I want to have a surfing image barcode. It became popular very quickly!

Michael: Are you into surfing?

Johnny: No, I don’t know very much about it!

laughter

Michael: But, humor and personality in business is extremely in this era.

Johnny: Well, in Kyoto there are many stores and companies with decades, even centuries of history. We have only been around for a little more than 5 years, so we can’t really compete with them on history, we have to do something new!

But, one important point. Some people might think that our tofu is much easier to make that that of the very old tofu shops in Kyoto. That is not true at all though. Otokomae Tofu is very troublesome to make. Our production process requires a lot of labor.

Michael: And why is that?

Johnny: Our tofu is very thick and creamy. I am really maniacal about how we simmer soybeans and soymilk and research and develop the recipe for each product.

Michael: So you do research for your recipes?

Johnny: Oh yes, of course.

Even though we don’t have such a long history, our tofu can’t be beaten in taste and quality by the old shops. However, if we take such a serious tone in our marketing, supermarket shoppers won’t notice our products.

We sell our tofu like they used to sell albums and CDs, by the jacket. People don’t know what is inside, but they see the label and think that is would be worth trying. Then they realize the quality of Otokomae Tofu!

They think; Johnny, otokomae. Umai! (lit. Johnny, handsome. Tasty!) They can’t forget it!

laughter

Michael: How would you describe the difference between your tofu and that of other makers?

Johnny: Our tofu is extremely thick and creamy. Of course, how we make each product is a trade secret, not to mention a great deal of work. Our tofu is very thick and rich. However, some people don’t like that kind of tofu, they like tofu that is more plain and light in flavor. So the market is really divided into those two types of tofu lovers.

Michael: I am definitely drawn to big flavors, maybe because I am American! So, I like your tofu very much and often eat it at home. So, maybe Otokomae Tofu would appeal to Western people particularly well?

Johnny: Where in America are you from?

Michael: Minnesota.

Johnny: Oh, you grow excellent organic soybeans there! I have been to Minnesota to purchase soybeans. Also, Minneapolis, that is where Prince is from.

Shingo (Johnny's real name) Tofu

Michael: What is your favorite Otokomae Tofu? What do you eat at home?

Johnny: Recently I am enjoying Shingo. Shingo is my name. This has a bottle opener on the package because it goes very well with beer on hot summer evenings. Just some soy sauce and scallions on cold tofu makes the dish called hiyayakko. It goes great with beer and I like beer! Shingo is also good in the winter cooked in nabe.

Actually this is made with imported soybeans, from Canada. This product, among our lineup is the lightest in flavor. Previously I only ate Johnny at home and didn’t really think that we could make tofu that I would like with imported soybeans. I researched and developed the recipes and techniques for these imported soybeans and I like the tofu we have now very much!

If we can make great tofu with imported soybeans, from Canada and America, then we should also be able to make great tofu there in those countries. Someday I think that we could have a tofu shop in New York or Los Angeles.

Also, water is very important for tofu. I am researching about how to present tofu for American consumers now. If we could make delicious tofu in America with American soybeans and local water, that would be great, wouldn’t it!

My Portrait of Kyoto Shock Therapist and Tofu Entrepreneur Shingo 'Johnny' Ito

Next I got a peek at a few new products under development and took a few very interesting photos of founder and CEO Shingo Ito.

A Sneak Peek at New Products in the Pipeline

Otokomae Tofu Bottle Opener - In Summer, Beer and Tofu Go Well Together!

Founder Johnny and Company Mascot Johnny at the Entrance to the Corporate Headquarters

'dandyism' (I didn't ask)

Otokomae Getup - This is what the staff wears at fairs and events!

Despite the gross unfairness of Iron Chef and host Takeshi Kaga to challengers, Yoshimi Tanigawa soundly defeated Masaharu Morimoto, former executive chef of Nobu, in a clean sweep!

“…(Chef Tanigawa) is said to be trying to change the over-decorative trend in recent Kyoto cuisine and working hard to revive the sophisticated style of true Kyoto cuisine with a 1000 year tradition. Chef Tanigawa carries the future of Kyoto cuisine on his shoulders.” (Iron Chef introduction)

Yoshimi Tanigawa it the owner and head chef of Kichisen, one of Kyoto’s most respected kaiseki restaurants. Kichisen is one of the few restaurants in present-day Japan that has an itamae dojo, or training program for apprentice chefs to learn the full spectrum of Kyoto culinary culture and authentic kaiseki cuisine. The course is 15 years long.

Yoshimi Tanigawa on Iron Chef

Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (1 of 5)

link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUsAkkCvJZU

Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (2 of 5)

link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToFhpBJfm0o

Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (3 of 5)

link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nX082fHEKYE

Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (4 of 5)

link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvEu4O80GkE

Iron Chef – Battle Pike Eel (5 of 5)

link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XFVbFG2S0Y

Kichisen Osechi New Year’s Cuisine Series on KyotoFoodie:
Osechi: What is Kyo-ryori (Kyoto Cuisine)?
Osechi: Kyoto Kichisen Master Chef Yoshimi Tanigawa
Osechi: What is Osechi Ryori?
Osechi: Shopping for Osechi Fish at Kyoto Wholesale Food Market
Osechi: Shopping for Osechi Vegetables at Kyoto Wholesale Food Market
Kichisen Osechi: Midnight Final Preparation and Meaning
Kichisen Kaiseki: Japanese New Year Shogatsu Ryori

SHARE! Kyoto Support Topic: Kaiseki-ryori in Kyoto

Tweet! Tweet! Find out what’s going on in Kyoto right now, follow me on Twitter.

Izuju: The Best Kyoto Style Sushi in Kyoto 祇園いづ重 京都寿司
I went to Izuju this morning and met the owner, Kitamura-san and heard all about their authentic Kyoto style sushi. It was quite an experience! Izuju has been in business for almost 100 years and is located on the corner of Shijo Street and Higashi O-ji, right across from the bright orange gate of Yasaka Shrine.

Izuju only makes Kyoto style sushi. The ‘edomae’ Tokyo style nigiri sushi, the kind we are most used to seeing abroad, is not available.

Famed Gion Izuju Owner Chef Kitamura-san

Some of Izuju’s greatest Kyoto sushi hits:

• sabazushi (pickled mackerel on sushi rice)
• sasamaki (sea bream, kinome and sushi rice wrapped in a sasa bamboo leaf)
• hakozushi (literally box sushi, in summer grill hamo pike eel and in winter sawara Spanish mackerel pressed onto to sushi rice in a wooden form)
• mushizushi (literally steamed sushi, this is a winter favorite, usually a lot of dashi in the rice then steamed)
• inarizushi (sushi rice with simmered vegetables in deep fried tofu skins*)

Of course there are other sushi dishes but these are the main dishes.

Inarizushi (inari sushi) is a Kyoto culinary fixture that has never moved me, Izuju’s astounded me though. Miwa says that Izuju’s inarizushi is the best in the world.

Izuju Kitchen Tour

After chatting over tea about sushi and Izuju with Kitamura-san, he invited me in back to see the kitchen. The restaurant is quite small, so I hadn’t realized that there was a kitchen in back. Several dark rooms with soot stained machiya rafters lead to a earthen hearth. I couldn’t believe my eyes, right here in the heart of Gion they are still cooking with wood! Using a handfull of used chopsticks, Kitamura-san fired it up and started simmering the days deepfried tofu inari pockets for inarizushi.

In the adjacent room staff were removing bones from aji horse mackerel for a seasonal sushi.

Gion Izuju Kitchen Tour

Firing up the hearth. On the left is where they cook rice and on the right is where they simmer inari pockets.

Gion Izuju Kitchen Tour

Now this hearth may look old, but it isn’t. They had it rebuilt 5 years ago and it needs repairs fairly often. There is only one person left in Kyoto making and maintaining these hearths, Kitamura-san said.

Gion Izuju Kitchen Tour

Simmering inari pockets.

Gion Izuju Kitchen Tour

Paper talismans from Atago Shrine to protect the home and business from fire is a very common sight even in modern Kyoto. As Izuju still uses a wood fire for cooking, they have a while lot of them stuck to the wall behind the hearth!

In the main kitchen they were cleaning fish and making inarizushi.

Gion Izuju Kitchen Tour: De-boning Aji

They are using metal tweezers to pull the bones out of these horse mackerel fillets.

Gion Izuju Kitchen Tour: Inari Sushi and Rice Stuffing Mixture

Gion Izuju Kitchen Tour: Inari Sushi

Making Sushi: Sabazushi

Back out in front, at the entrence is where they make the sabazushi. Often times sabazushi is formed in a wooden box form, but Izuju makes theirs into a roll. The process is rather simple:

• Layout vinegared mackerel fillet
• Form rice to shape
• Place rice atop mackerel fillet
• Roll inside cloth for form
• Roll inside kombu

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

How to Make Kyoto Sushi – Sabazushi

Shinise Restaurant Interior

The interior of Izuju is quite an experience. Everything has a meaning and a reason for being there. Most of the decorations are from the restaurants past and were significant to its development.

Gion Izuju Restaurant Interior

Gion Izuju Restaurant Interior: Storefront Sign

This boat and rice paddle used to be Izuju’s shingle! Quite a sign. Izuju developed a trademarked name for their sushi presentation which was served in large wooden ‘boats’ like the shape of the sign.

Gion Izuju Restaurant Interior

Up to modern times, Izuju and similar operations did catering and takeout. These plates are what were used to serve their sushi at nice ‘restaurants’ in Gion. The paper one the wall is musical score from traditional Japanese Noh theater. The name for their trademarked sushi presentation comes from a Noh play, this is the score for that play.

Gion Izuju Restaurant Interior

Interior Details

The narrow vertical peices are Kitayama Sugi (Japanese cedar from the north mountians of Kyoto), the heavily abraded and eroded planks are from the inside of a well! I have never seen this before.

Interior Details

The plank here is from a wooden boat on Lake Biwa. Peices of wooden boats from Lake Biwa are a very common sight in Kyoto. Kitamura-san said that these peices were collected during the war. Even during a time of such hardship the previous owner still didn’t pass up a chance to score some interesting wood!

Kyoto Sushi Facts

I talked to the owner for an hour or so this morning and here are a few things that I learned. (I learned a lot!)

- Traditionally sushi restaurants were closed in the summer months, from right after the Gion Festival (July 17) to September.

- Before World War II most restaurants didn’t prepare food on site. The owner would get a reservation and budget from the customer and then order each dish from speciality shops. For example, Izuju was one of the top choices for sushi in Kyoto.

- Edo mae (Tokyo style) nigiri sushi came to Kyoto thanks to the 1923 Great Kantō Earthquake with sushi shops that relocated to Kyoto.

- Izuju was previously located at the intersection of Sanjo and Kawabata streets. During World War II they came to work one day and found an order posted on their storefront say to leave within one week because the block was going to be demolished by the military government. (A number of neighborhoods in Kyoto were leveled during the war to make makeshift runways, firebreaks and etc. These actions were militarily useless and only increased the suffering of the Japanese people.)

Izuju packed up a wagon and moved to their current location. They never even unpacked as they thought that they would have to move again. Fortunately the war ended soon after, and of course they now have probably the very best location in all of Kyoto. They left the wagon in their storehouse for several decades, as it was when they left their Sanjo location.

- Izuju has used the same rice, fish and kombu dealers for their entire history. No competitive bidding for business here!

- Izuju has not changed their recipes or sushi line-up since they started. (They did have to add one item to the menu based on a law made my General MacArthur during the occupation.)

- They still cook over a wood fired hearth. There is no sushi restaurant in Kyoto that still does and there are only several tofu shops that still do. They use used chopsticks as kindling and the fire department gets called by mistake several times a year by people thinking there is a fire in the heart of Gion!

Highly Recommended

Izuju is a restaurant whose sushi I have had many times take out at friends’ houses, as omiyage, etc, although I have never eaten in the restaurant, even though I walk or bike past it once or twice a week. I was deeply impressed by this casual, friendly, down to earth yet extremely sophisticated and ‘bases loaded homerun’ tasty restaurant.

Izuju is old Kyoto, in the heart of Gion, right across the street from historic Yasaka Shrine. It could be so easy for them to be full of themselves, stuck-up and haughty. Yet Kitamura-san, the owner was so humble and so kind and so sincere in his love of sushi and his restaurant. While I was taking photos in the other room, customers started coming in and I sensed that they were truly grateful to be able to buy his sushi and that he was truly honored to serve them. I can only believe that the soul of this restaurant accounts for the taste. The taste, while sophisticated, historic and deeply Kyoto, I would describe as elevated homecookin.

I was impressed with this restaurant beyond my ability to articulate. It is just so down to earth yet so elevated. I cannot think of a similar restaurant in Kyoto. (I am sure that there are some.)

For a sushi restaurant and a Kyoto shinise, Izuju is not expensive. If you are on a budget, you can enjoy a modest sampling of sushi, the likes of which you cannot find anywhere else in the world, including Japan, for like $10 or so. If you like sushi and are on a budget but can afford to spend like $50 per person on one nice meal on your visit to Kyoto, I would say that Izuju is THE place to go.

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