Wagashi: Kyoto Tsuruya Keiran Somen 京都鶴屋 鶏卵素麺 鶴寿庵
For this unusual wagashi just two ingredients; sugar and egg yolk, and some ancient Portuguese technique are needed to make Keiran Somen, literally ‘chicken egg angel hair noodles’.
Barbarian Confection: Fios de Ovos
Tsuruya is a Kyoto wagashi shinise that has a new shop in the Nishiki Market called Tsurujuan. I had heard about this confection from Miwa but I had never seen it. The moment I laid eyes on it I reached for my wallet.
The inventiveness of wagashi never ceases to amaze, keiran somen, like kasutera and kompeito, is one of those ‘not quite’ Japanese confections that is inspired by fios de ovos, or ‘angel hair’ that made its way to Japan in the 1600’s from Portugal. The ingredient list is short; just sugar and egg yolk. The taste and texture is out of this world rich and luxurious!
Keiran Somen – Package
Keiran Somen – Package Unwrapped
Keiran Somen
Keiran somen is based on the Portuguese dish fios de ovos or ‘angel hair’.
How to Make: A Pound of Sugar, A Pound of Egg Yolk
A few years ago I learned why pound cake is called pound cake; a pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of flour. Very simple, very rich. When I first tasted Tsuruya’s keiran somen, the first thing that came to mind was, a pound of sugar, a pound of egg yolk.
Kyoto Tsuruya won’t say how they make their keiran somen, however they do say that it is made the ‘traditional way’. There are a small number of wagashi companies in Japan that make keiran somen. Rock sugar is melted over heat in a pan and into this well stirred egg yolk is poured from a container with multiple narrow spouts. The cooked threads of egg yolk are gathered up into a loop, just like yarn. It is then twisted tight and cut into bite sized pieces.
Keiran Somen
Keiran Somen
Keiran Somen Pulled Apart
Gently untwisting will separate the ‘noodles’.
Keiran Somen – detail
Ingredient List: Sugar and Egg
(From the second line) 砂糖 sugar, 鶏卵 chicken egg
Wow, it looks like it has a nice texture, and looks quite like an Indian sweet! How did it taste?
Great photos and information. And the plate used for display [Keiran Somen - detail] is gorgeous. More pottery and food photo combos, please!
Very interesting to see this in Japan. The Portuguese brought this dessert to Thailand as well, where it to be found at every market– one of the country’s most popular desserts. The egg mixture is also boiled in syrup to take on other shapes besides threads. See below for a recipe and additional info:
http://www.khiewchanta.com/archives/desserts/egg-yolk-kanom-kanoom-foy-tong-1.html
and
http://www.bangkokpost.com/education/desserts.htm
Hello Arun, Like an Indian sweet, really? It tasted like egg yolk with a lot sugar. It really reminded me of pound cake; just a few ingredients and full-on of that flavor.
Hi Mora, OK, more pottery and food, coming right up! Thank you for the input.
Hello Craig, Thanks for that link! I had not realized that. Flavoring it with rose water or vanilla essence sounds really excellent! As I had expected, this is a dish that really requires some technique.
Looks great! I’ve had the Thai version before but had no idea that it originated in Portugal.
Very interesting, really, to see this in Japan! I truly agree! I knew how it came to Thailand and then to Cambodja. Yes, it is a portuguese dessert for centuries ever. And it is delicious. Try it as garnishing main course dishes, mainly roasted meat, pork, turky and duck. Bon appétit! Don’t forget a drop of Porto wine, special reserve, indeed!!!
Hi- can you help me find egg threads as listed in your site- I am trying to make a marta rocha cake and cant seem to find them in Brazilian stores?
Please help.
Thanks.
Krystina
[...] there, which so far as I can see include Spanish huevo hilado, Portuguese fios de ovos, Japanese keiran somen and Cambodian / Khmer vawee – maybe more out there [...]